Indoor smoking is still fairly common in social venues. Law vibe is somewhat formal, with paperwork feeling more important than street life.
Minimum budget: rural $700/mo, urban $1100/mo. Medical insurance: $400/yr.
Auto: Russian local licenses are generally enough for short tourist driving. Rentals are roughly $25-55/day for Logan, Solaris, Rio class and $55-100+ for crossovers; winter tires and mountain road condition matter. Georgia is the practical rental-car border with written permission; Iran, Turkey, Azerbaijan are usually impractical or closed, high-friction for rental cars.
Smoking: Indoor smoking is still fairly common in social venues.
Police / rules: Police and public-order vibe is more paperwork than street pressure: keep documents clean, but ordinary movement does not feel like a constant enforcement trap.